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The death grip: how tightly you hold the instrument shapes everything

Almost every new Anglo player does it. The hand straps are cinched tight, the thumbs are clamped against the leather, the little fingers are braced hard against the fretwork, and the whole instrument is gripped as though it might make a run for it. It feels secure. In practice it is the single biggest obstacle to fluent playing.

The concertina should rest in your hands, not be wrestled into submission. In the traditional grip, the weight is carried largely by the thumb straps and the little finger rests, with the palms relaxed and the fingers free to move. If you can't slide a fingertip under your hand strap, it's too tight. If your thumbs ache after ten minutes, you're holding on rather than holding.

Watch for the symptoms: tired forearms, a stiff right hand, bellows that jerk rather than glide. Loosen the straps a notch, shake out your hands, and play a slow scale while deliberately letting your shoulders drop. Tension in the hands almost always starts in the shoulders and the jaw.

Rushing the bellows changes

On an Anglo, the bellows are not simply an air supply. Because the instrument is bisonoric, every change of direction changes the note under your fingers, and every change carries a small accent. Where you choose to change direction shapes the rhythm and phrasing of a tune, whether you meant it to or not.

Beginners change direction wherever it happens to be convenient, often mid-phrase or on a weak beat, and the tune starts to lurch and gasp. Listeners hear those accidental accents as stumbles, not style.

  • Plan your changes deliberately. Mark them on the dots, or work them out by ear, aiming for changes at bar lines, phrase endings, or natural breathing points.
  • Practise a tune on one row until you know the push-pull geography without thinking about it.
  • Steady the bellows physically: keep your left hand as the anchor and let the bellows travel in a smooth, shallow arc rather than a sharp zigzag.
  • Then, once the change sits in the right place, use it. An intended push-pull accent is one of the loveliest things about the instrument.

Leaving the left hand to fend for itself

In the first few weeks, all the attention goes to the melody hand. The left hand hangs about doing very little, and by the time the player notices, they have a whole repertoire of tunes with no accompaniment at all — and the idea of adding one feels impossible.

Start the left hand early, even if it's simple. In the early days, that might mean nothing more than a bass note on the first beat of each bar and a chord on the third. English and Welsh session tunes often suit a drone or open fifth held across a phrase, while faster tunes usually want a bouncing um-pah pattern borrowed from the melodeon players across the room.

A useful discipline is to practise each hand alone. Play the left-hand part as though it were the tune, with its own rhythm and its own shape. When you bring the hands together, the accompaniment will feel like something you are playing rather than something you are hoping happens.

Racing ahead of your fingers

Session culture encourages speed, and new players often try to match it long before they can. Playing a tune fast when you only half know it teaches your hands to make mistakes fluently, and those mistakes quickly become habit.

Slow practice is not a penance; it is where the work gets done. Set a metronome or tap your foot at a tempo where you can play every note cleanly and place every bellows change deliberately — often somewhere between 60 and 80 beats per minute. Work in short phrases rather than whole tunes, and only speed up once a phrase is reliable three times in a row. Speed arrives on its own as a by-product of accuracy.

Forgetting the air button

The air valve on the left-hand end is usually treated as nothing more than a way of closing the instrument. It is actually a musical tool. It lets you reset the bellows at a rest or between phrases without changing a single note, and it lets you take a quiet breath when the tune needs one.

Learn to use it deliberately: at the end of a verse, before a tricky passage, and any time your bellows are running out of travel in an awkward place. Players who ignore the air button end up fighting the bellows, and fighting the bellows is exactly what causes the tight grip and the rushed changes described above.

Small maintenance habits that save big repair bills

An Anglo takes a fair amount of punishment, and most faults develop gradually rather than suddenly. A few habits will keep a good instrument playing well for decades.

  • Store it flat, in its case, away from radiators, damp cellars, and car boots in summer. Reeds dislike both extremes.
  • Play with clean, dry hands, and wipe the ends with a soft dry cloth afterwards. Dust and grit around the buttons and in the fretwork does real damage over time.
  • Check for leaks now and then. With all buttons released, press the ends gently together; the bellows should move only very slowly. If they collapse quickly, the bellows or gaskets need attention.
  • Keep end bolts snug but never over-tighten them. A stripped bolt is an expensive lesson.
  • Know when to stop. If a reed sounds rough, buzzes, or a note goes silent, don't open the instrument for a look. A specialist repairer will fix it properly and at reasonable cost; homemade adjustments rarely do.

None of these habits are glamorous, but they are the difference between an instrument that fights you and one that sings. Slow down, loosen your grip, bring in the left hand early, and let the bellows do their work — the tunes will follow.

Eleanor Hartley
Web developer since 2006. Create hundreds of websites, HTML and CSS3 expert, who started to learn web design on a world-class level.

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